The last 140 years have seen a slow and steady increase in interest and production of wine in Japan. Initiated under the Meiji government as a way to foster economic innovation, Japan is becoming a significant niche in the international wine landscape with over 500 wineries.
Only wines made entirely from domestically grown grapes can be labelled Japanese wine* and only one in five bottles of wine produced in Japan is actually made entirely from Japanese grown grapes. This scenario has led to refreshingly innovative grower-producers who are willing to ride their niche. They experiment with natural wines, own smaller vineyards and make a deep respect and understanding of the needs and structure of the grape varieties on a varited and off-ruggered landscape, work for, rather than against them.
While the indigenous Koshu grape dominates local production, international varieties such as Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon are also grown and highly appreciated. Growers do not hesitate to continue to switch up and experiment with different varieties according to climatic evolution and resulting taste profiles. The country’s four main wine-growing prefectures—Yamanashi, Nagano, Yamagata, and Hokkaido—offer a mineral rich and topically varied landscape for viticulture, producing wines that speak the challenges of the landscape and weather, with both high rainfall and temperature variations being a hallmark of Japanese wines.
The Koshu grape variety originates from vine seedlings that travelled the Silk Road from the Caucasus to Japan over a thousand years ago. Yamanashi Prefecture, where Koshu thrives, has well-drained volcanic soil, making it an ideal location for viticulture, despite being one of the rain-soaked regions in the world -necessitating trellis structures for growing. The region remains the most recognised in Japanese wine production, responsible for around 33% of the country’s total crush and home to 95% of the nation’s Koshu plantings. The grey-pink grape, once dismissed as mediocre, was studied and found to have underlying citrus aromas, producing white wines with a delicate palette featuring peach, and floral notes, crisp acidity, and low alcohol—perfect for pairing with fresh seafood and subtle dishes.
Beyond Yamanashi, Japan’s winemaking scene is evolving with innovative producers pushing the boundaries of what Japanese wine can achieve. From Hokkaido’s cold-climate vineyards to boutique natural wineries in remote regions, Japan is developing a diverse and dynamic wine industry. The following five wineries exemplify the excellence and dedication that define Japan’s modern wine landscape.
Domaine Takahiko, situated at the northern tip of Hokkaido, is one of Japan’s most revered wineries. Founded by Takahiko Soga in 2010, the domaine has gained a near-mythical status, with its flagship wine, Nana-Tsu-Mori, highly sought after and commanding inflated prices in the West. Soga, the son of the owner of Obuse Winery in Nagano, studied oenology at Tokyo University of Agriculture before embarking on a career in microbiology. However, his passion for wine led him to work at Coco Farm Winery under the guidance of a famous US winemaker in Japan, Bruce Gutlove (see below). After a decade of experience, he established Domaine Takahiko, focusing on wines that reflect Japan’s terroir, culture, and climate.
Producing around 15,000 bottles annually from 4.6 hectares of vines, the winery specializes in Pinot Noir, using 13 different clones to create nuanced, natural wines. He describes his wine profile as a movement toward the subtle umami, complexity, and softness that comes from microbial-rich soil. Hundreds of volunteers travel to Hokkaido each year to help with the harvest, eager to experience Soga’s unique approach to winemaking. His dedication extends beyond his own winery, as he actively trains and supports new wine growers, furthering Japan’s winemaking excellence.
Founded by former archaeologist Eishi Okamoto, Beau Paysage is one of Japan’s most elusive wineries, with its small production selling out almost instantly upon release. With only a total of 3 hectares, Okamoto took a patient approach to establishing his winery, spending years preparing before officially launching.
Dedicated to natural cultivation, Okamoto avoids plowing to preserve the microbial life of the soil, an essential factor in his philosophy despite Japan’s challenging hot and humid climate. A pivotal moment came in 2002 when he tasted New Zealand’s Providence wine. Inspired by its purity, Okamoto gradually reduced sulfur usage, leading him toward completely natural winemaking.
Every step of production at Beau Paysage is done manually by Okamoto himself. He meticulously selects grapes, allowing the fruit to ferment naturally under its own weight, without any machinery. This hands-on approach results in wines that are deeply expressive and highly coveted by enthusiasts.
Bruce Gutlove, an American-born winemaker, has played a pivotal role in shaping Japan’s modern wine scene. After developing a passion for wine while studying at the State University of New York, he pursued oenology at UC Davis, training at top California wineries. In 1989, he was invited to consult for COCO FARM & WINERY in Tochigi, where he worked to produce world-class wines using 100% Japanese grapes.
Determined to make his own wine, Gutlove established 10R Winery in Iwamizawa, Hokkaido, in 2009. His efforts have contributed to Hokkaido’s growing reputation as a premier cold-climate wine region. With its vineyards buried under meters of snow in winter and benefiting from relatively dry summers and autumns, Hokkaido is increasingly seen as Japan’s new frontier in viticulture. 10R Winery continues to pioneer winemaking techniques that respect both the land and the unique climate of northern Japan.
Atsuo Yamanaka’s journey to winemaking is as unconventional as it is inspiring. Born into a family of tea merchants, he initially moved to Hokkaido for snowboarding before falling in love with the region’s small farms and agricultural heritage. His passion for wine led him to work under Takahiko Soga at Domaine Takahiko before launching Domaine Mont in 2016. Atsuo concentrates on Pinot Gris, tracing this choice in grape variety to his Japanese tea heritage, finding parallels in the delicate yet complex pallet as well as the presence of tannins.
Situated in Yoichi, Hokkaido, Domaine Mont’s 1.5 hectares of vineyards benefit from a cold maritime climate and well-drained volcanic soils. Yamanaka follows organic farming principles and crafts wines that reflect both the land and the traditions of Hokkaido. His dedication to natural winemaking and his deep connection to the region make Domaine Mont one of Japan’s most exciting new wineries.
Château Mercian is Japan’s most established winery, founded in 1949 following an educational journey to France by two Japanese young men to learn traditional European winemaking techniques. Their descendants continue to grow Koshu for Mercian today, a testament to the winery’s long-standing legacy.
Unlike the boutique wineries mentioned above, Château Mercian is a larger, more commercial producer, making it easier to find its wines in Europe and beyond. Winner of gold medals in several international wine competitions, the winery cultivates Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot, while also experimenting with Albariño and Mencia. They have opened several additional wineries and a wine museum over the last 10 years. Despite its scale, Château Mercian remains committed to advancing Japan’s winemaking industry, sharing knowledge and expertise with fellow producers.
As Japan’s wine industry continues to evolve, these five wineries underline the country’s ingenuity, tradition, and commitment to producing world-class wines. Whether through small-scale natural winemaking or pioneering larger-scale production, Japan’s vintners are carving out a unique place in the global wine scene.
*https://www.thedrinksbusiness.com/2015/08/japan-sharpens-wine-laws/?utm_source=chatgpt.com
