From my experience, the higher you go up North, the less spectacular are Alain Ducasse 3 Michelin restaurants. I am joking of course, but so were probably the Michelin inspectors who awarded Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester 3 Michelin stars.
I honestly doubt that the chef himself ever cooks in his restaurant’s kitchens. If he did, the quality of the cooking at his restaurants in Monaco, Paris or London wouldn’t be that different. If I found Louis XV (3*) in Monaco extraordinary and Alain Ducasse at Plaza Athénée (3*) very good; Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester (3*) was pretty mediocre. Yes, the dining room was beautiful and the service was perfect, but the food was far from perfection. Simple toast (you eat for breakfast) with chopped tomatoes served as an amuse bouche; foie gras terrine with peppered jelly and pickled vegetables (I don’t think foie gras terrine goes very well with bitter and sour flavours); or turbot with potato gnocchi and country bacon (the fish was overcooked)… Not only the food didn’t shine as it should be at a 3 Michelin star restaurant, but it also was not particularly interesting or even good…
4 years old Comté cheese was the only highlight of the dinner. It’s a truly exceptional cheese (for me it is as special as caviar) and if you happen to find it at a cheese shop, don’t hesitate to buy it…
