The hardest to reserve restaurant in the world is not in Brooklyn, Barcelona and not even in Copenhagen. It’s in Tokyo and you’ve probably never heard of it before. I’ve been trying to get into Kawamura steakhouse without any success each time I went to Tokyo. And I am not talking about conventional ways of booking a restaurant in a foreign city, as when asked, Tokyo hotels concierges would usually not even bother to call Kawamura.
The pocket-sized, 7 places counter restaurant in Ginza can only be booked by newcomers on the first day of every month, but as it’s regulars reserve their next meal every time they finish eating, it is nearly impossible to get into Kawamura for the outsiders. According to 1 Michelin starred Hedone’s chef Michael Jonsson, the only person I know who has managed to eat at Kawamura steakhouse, the simply grilled steaks are “so good that superlatives like ”exceptional”, “extraordinary” or “as good as it will ever get” all seem insufficient”. Kawamura’s chef “simply closes the restaurant if he is unable to source top drawer beef and he will advise clients to come and eat another time.”
As Michael said last time I had dinner at his restaurant in London, “you have more chances to book El Bulli for next week than to get into Kawamura.” Doesn’t sound very promising, but I still haven’t lost my hope…
