Kaiseki – is a traditional Japanese multicourse meal that originates from tea drinking ceremonies in the 16th century. Kyoto and its region is the cradle of the Japanese culture as well as of kaiseki. Many say that multicourse small portions menus in the “Western” gastronomic restaurants are influenced by the tradition of kaiseki. It is not only about many different plates (some can be only a few bites), but also about using the best quality ingredients of that particular season.
Kikunoi restaurant is considered as the best in Kyoto and probably the most famous kaiseki restaurant in the world. Yoshihiro Murata, the third generation chef of Kikunoi, has even his own book with Ferran Adria’s introduction…
Kikunoi is located in one of the oldest parts of Kyoto. Wherever you walk, you will see mysterious shrines and temples. When you arrive at the restaurant you are greeted and you are asked to take your shoes off.
Then you are shown your own private dining room.
Just having your own room and sitting on a floor in a traditional, Japanese style minimalistic environment is an experience by itself. You also have a hostess, dressed in traditional Japanese kimono, who takes care of you during all the dinner. ( see the first picture)
The kaiseki meal is composed of several courses – we had 11 if you count green tea, amuse bouches and the desserts. Each of the dishes of the dinner has a name and a meaning and different ingredients are used each season. I had quite a problem understanding how each dish was called and even what it consisted of as the hostess didn’t speak English at all and we tried to guess the components of each dish by looking at the book of the chef.
The amuse-bouche
Pickled plums, sea bream milt, toasted ground sesame seeds, horsetail shoots.
Yellow jack sashimi, grated wasabi, tosa soy sauce. Shrimp, grated wasabi, tosa soy sauce.
Tuna (toro), egg yolk soy sauce, dissolved Japanese mustard
“Wakasa tilefish, sea urchin roe, saikyo miso paste.”
Abalone and peas salad ( I think ?) Interesting and refreshing combination. The onions on the top gave a lot.
Shrimp bouillon –the taste reminded bisque of lobster
“Nama konoko”, fresh sea cucumber roe with some raw root vegetables
I didn’t find this dish in the book so I guess it was seaweed (very jelly-like) soup with shrimp tempura and tofu.
Rice with tiny fried anchovies and boiled egg yolk. Soup. The last dish of the meal.
Ice cream and green tea jelly
Beans jelly
Green tea to finish the dinner.
